Succulent Kebabs, Biryani and a World More: An Indian Metropolis Gains Recognition on Unesco Culinary List.
Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.